How to Sew a Blind Hem by Hand and Machine

A blind hem is the secret to professional-looking garments. This nearly invisible hemming technique creates a clean finish that’s barely noticeable from the right side of the fabric, making it perfect for dress pants, skirts, curtains, and formal wear. Whether you’re using a sewing machine or stitching by hand, mastering the blind hem stitch will elevate your sewing projects.

A blind hem is a hemming technique that hides most of the stitching on the fabric’s right side, creating an almost invisible finish. The stitch catches only a few threads of the fabric’s outer layer, making it nearly undetectable. This technique works best on medium to heavyweight fabrics like wool, linen, and cotton blends.

The blind hem differs from a standard hem because it doesn’t create a visible stitch line on the garment’s exterior. Instead, tiny, barely-visible stitches secure the hem while maintaining a professional appearance.

Most modern sewing machines include a blind hem stitch setting and using a blind hem presser foot makes the process even easier.

What You’ll Need

Sewing machine with blind hem stitch capability
Blind hem presser foot (also called a blind hem foot or edge-stitch foot)
Thread matching your fabric
Pins or fabric clips
Iron and ironing board
Fabric marking tool

Step 1: Prepare Your Hem

Press your hem allowance upward. For most garments, fold the raw edge under 1/4 inch, press, then fold the full hem allowance (typically 1 to 2 inches) and press again. Pin in place.

Step 2: Fold the Fabric

This is the trickiest part of the blind hem stitch. With the wrong side of the fabric facing up, fold the garment back against itself, leaving about 1/4 inch of the hem edge extending beyond the fold. The bulk of the garment should be folded to the left, with just the hem edge visible on the right.

Step 3: Attach the Blind Hem Presser Foot

Install your blind hem foot according to your machine’s instructions. This specialized foot has a guide that helps keep your stitching aligned.

Step 4: Select the Blind Hem Stitch

Set your machine to the blind hem stitch setting. This stitch typically creates several straight stitches followed by one wide zigzag stitch. Adjust the stitch width and length according to your fabric weight—use narrower settings for lightweight fabrics and wider settings for heavier materials.

Step 5: Position and Sew

Place the folded fabric under the presser foot so the fold aligns with the guide on the blind hem foot. The straight stitches should catch only the hem edge, while the zigzag stitch should barely catch the fold (and thus the garment fabric).

Sew slowly, watching to ensure the zigzag stitch just kisses the fold. If it’s catching too much fabric, your hem will be visible. If it’s not catching at all, the hem won’t be secure.

Step 6: Unfold and Press

Remove the pins, unfold your fabric, and press the hem. The zigzag stitches should appear as tiny dots on the right side of the fabric.

Problem: Stitches show too much on the right side

Solution: Reduce your stitch width or adjust the fabric position so the zigzag catches fewer threads

Problem: Hem is pulling or puckering

Solution: Reduce thread tension or use a slightly longer stitch length

Problem: Hem isn’t secure

Solution: Increase stitch width slightly or ensure the zigzag is catching the fold properly

Hand-sewn blind hems offer the most invisible finish and give you complete control over every stitch. This method is ideal for delicate fabrics, vintage garments, or when you want the most professional result possible.

What You’ll Need

Hand sewing needle (size 10 or 11 sharps work well)
Thread matching your fabric
Thimble (optional but helpful)
Pins or fabric clips
Iron and ironing board

Step 1: Prepare the Hem

Press your hem allowance the same way as for machine sewing—fold the raw edge under 1/4 inch, then fold the full hem allowance and press. Pin in place.

Step 2: Thread Your Needle

Cut about 18-24 inches of thread and thread your needle. Knot the end or make a few small stitches at the starting point to secure the thread.

Step 3: Begin Stitching

Working from right to left (left to right if you’re left-handed), start inside the fold of the hem. Bring the needle out through the folded edge.

Step 4: Catch the Garment Fabric

With the needle pointing left, catch just 1-2 threads of the garment fabric directly above where the needle emerged from the fold. Don’t pull the needle through yet.

Step 5: Return to the Hem

Insert the needle back into the hem fold about 1/4 to 1/2 inch to the left of where you started. Pull the thread through gently—don’t pull too tight or the fabric will pucker.

Step 6: Repeat

Continue this pattern: catch a few threads of the garment, then insert the needle back into the hem fold 1/4 to 1/2 inch away. Keep your stitches evenly spaced and your tension consistent.

Step 7: Finish

When you reach the end, secure your thread with several small stitches hidden inside the fold, or knot the thread close to the fabric.

Use a single strand of thread rather than doubled thread for less bulk
Match your thread color exactly to your fabric for the most invisible finish
Work in good lighting so you can see how many threads you’re catching
Press your hem thoroughly before starting—crisp folds make stitching easier
Keep your stitches loose enough that the fabric doesn’t pucker when you unfold it

Choose machine blind hemming when:

You’re hemming long lengths (like curtains or maxi skirts)
Working with medium to heavyweight fabrics
Speed is a priority
The garment is casual or won’t be closely inspected

Choose hand blind hemming when:

Working with delicate, lightweight, or slippery fabrics
Creating formal wear or garments for special occasions
You want the absolute most invisible finish
The hem is curved or has intricate details
You’re repairing or altering vintage or heirloom garments

Blind hems work beautifully on:

Wool and wool blends
Linen and linen blends
Medium-weight cotton
Gabardine
Silk dupioni
Heavier synthetic fabrics

Blind hems are challenging on:

Very lightweight fabrics (the stitches may show)
Knits (they may stretch)
Thick fabrics like denim (too bulky)
Sheers and transparent fabrics (stitches will be visible)

For lightweight or stretchy fabrics, consider alternative hem techniques like a rolled hem or stretch stitch hem.

Skipping the Press

Always press your hem before stitching. Crisp, well-pressed folds are essential for accurate blind hemming. Without proper pressing, your stitches will be uneven and your hem may shift as you sew.

Catching Too Much Fabric

The most common mistake is catching too many threads on the zigzag stitch (machine) or the pick-up stitch (hand). Practice on scrap fabric until you can consistently catch just 1-2 threads.

Inconsistent Tension

Whether sewing by hand or machine, maintain consistent thread tension. Too tight creates puckering; too loose creates a sloppy hem that may come undone.

Wrong Thread Choice

Always use thread that matches your fabric color exactly. Even perfectly executed blind hem stitches will be visible if your thread contrasts with the fabric.

Before tackling an important project, practice your blind hem technique on scrap fabric:

Use fabric similar to your project fabric
Practice both the folding technique and the stitching
Experiment with stitch width and length settings (machine) or stitch spacing (hand)
Unfold your practice hems to evaluate how visible the stitches are
Make adjustments until you achieve an invisible finish

For curved hems like circle skirts, you may need to ease the hem slightly. Work in small sections, pressing and pinning as you go. Hand sewing gives you more control on curves than machine stitching.

On heavy coating or upholstery fabrics, reduce bulk by trimming the hem allowance to a single fold rather than a double fold. Use a wider, looser stitch to accommodate the fabric thickness.

When hemming lined garments, catch both the lining and the outer fabric together in your blind hem stitch, ensuring the layers don’t separate over time.

Can I use a regular presser foot for blind hem stitch?

While it's possible to sew a blind hem stitch with a regular presser foot, a blind hem presser foot makes the process much easier and more accurate. The guide on the blind hem foot helps align the fabric fold perfectly, resulting in more consistent stitches. If you frequently sew blind hems, investing in this specialized foot is worthwhile.

Why does my blind hem show on the right side of the fabric?

If your blind hem is too visible, you're likely catching too many fabric threads with the zigzag stitch. Adjust your fabric position so the zigzag just barely catches the fold, or reduce your stitch width. You may also need to adjust how you fold the fabric—ensure only about 1/4 inch of the hem edge extends beyond the fold.

What's the difference between blind hem stitch and slip stitch?

A slip stitch is a hand-sewing technique that creates an invisible seam by slipping the needle through fabric folds. A blind hem stitch can be sewn by hand or machine and is specifically designed for hemming. Both create nearly invisible results, but blind hem stitch (especially by machine) is faster for long, straight hems, while slip stitch offers more flexibility for curved or detailed work.

How do I fix a blind hem that's puckering?

Puckering usually indicates thread tension is too tight. For machine sewing, reduce the upper thread tension slightly and test on scrap fabric. For hand sewing, avoid pulling the thread tight after each stitch—leave it just snug enough to hold the hem in place. Also ensure you're not catching too much fabric with each stitch, which can cause gathering.

How to Sew a Blind Hem by Hand and Machine

What Is a Blind Hem?

How to Sew a Blind Hem by Machine

What You’ll Need

Step-by-Step Machine Blind Hem Tutorial

Blind Hem Stitch Troubleshooting